below is a letter from a friend of mine in iraq. it is a perspective you dont often see in the general media.
It has been a long quiet summer. I couldn't have asked for better.
Camp Kalsu isn't perfect by any means, but it's a far sight better
than most places in this country. I don't know what CNN and FOX are
telling you or what your impression of that news is, but from where I
sit, it isn't real promising. Not totally bad, it's just going to
take a while for this to all work out, but I don't think the good ol'
US of A is going to wait around to find out. There are about twenty
individual groups trying to upset the apple cart here. About a half
dozen of them are the big ones you hear about all the time, the
Taliban, Al-Qaida, a few different militias and some feuding tribes.
All of them have one thing in common. There is no rhyme or reason to
what they are doing. I've found that it is a lot like the old west of
a couple hundred years ago. Back then, all of the Indian tribes kept
themselves busy fighting each other with turf battles and raiding
parties. Eventually the settlers came and the separate tribes still
fought each other, but they started fighting with the new comers too.
Eventually, they found themselves fighting a common enemy. Once they
were finally able to put aside their differences and make a unified
stand against the cowboys (think Little Big Horn), it was too little
too late. But not all Iraqis are against us being here. I think a
majority of the population realizes that we are the only thing holding
this country together right now. This place is going to go crazy
when we pull out. And it's not like they don't care. There are good
people here that want a good life for the people of Iraq, but every
government entity, every law enforcement agency and the military, is
infiltrated by some form of insurgent. There are Taliban in the
government, the local police are full of militia guys, there are
Al-Qaida in the military, so until they can clean up their own
organizations, it is going to be an uphill battle for us. Iran is a
big player here. They control the government in Baghdad, most of them
placed in office by us. A lot of them are native Iraqis, but during
the last war and at the beginning of this one, they left for Iran and
became sympathizers with that government. The locals don't trust them
any further than we do our own politician.
Which brings up some other interesting items, Americans (%$*& Yeah!!)
come here and shake their heads at the violence and corruption in this
country. They look at the difference in the two countries, but fail
to see the similarities. Yes, there is a lot of violence here. At
the start of the summer it was common for there to be on average about
thirty bodies scattered around Baghdad every morning from murders
committed during the night. That is a lot more than some of our worst
cities, but then, they aren't in a war zone. And a comparison can be
made about all of these warring factions in this country. What they
amount to is nothing more than the same gang warfare that we have at
home, turf wars and power struggles, but that comparison gets lost to
us under the guise of fighting in the name of Islam. More often than
not, the religious groups are just a front for criminals and thugs.
Then there is the corruption. We have our own corrupt politicians and
officials, they just seem to do it in a more acceptable way. I don't
think there is a day goes by that some senator or congressman back
home isn't in the news for something. And according to some groups,
our highest offices are filled with lies and corruption. So a lot of
folks should wake up and not look at Iraq and get all "holier than
thou".
Speaking of "Holier than thou", I think it is commonly believed that
Muslims are a very devout group in Iraq. I am coming to find out that
jack-Muslims are in the majority. According to the devout, you are to
pray five times a day (three for some sects) and Friday is church day.
You are not to do anything on Friday that would be considered unholy.
Considered unholy by who? That makes a big difference. Alcohol is
forbidden in Islam, yet there are hundreds of liquor stores in
Baghdad, and I'm sure elsewhere. When the IPs come to our camp and we
go see them at their station, "whiskey" is a well known word when
asked what they want. We were at the IHP station the other day and a
booze merchant came in all upset that he had been shaken down at one
of the highway check points. The station commander had to go out and
get four of his IPs and put them in his own jail so that they wouldn't
be out at the check point all liquored up. It's bad enough when
they're sober. One of the IPs shot his buddy in the shoulder the
other day at one of the check points when they were horsing around.
The interesting thing here is, that when it came time to impose a
sentence on the shooter, it was to be taken up between the sheikh of
his tribe and the sheikh of the wounded guy's tribe, not the courts.
Another rule of Islam is against adultery. It is acceptable to have
more than one wife, and adultery is forbidden. But!! If you go to
the Imam and pay a little bit of money, you can be temporarily married
to another woman for a few hours. The length of the marriage depends
on the amount paid and is at the discretion of the Imam. That sounds
kind of familiar, but I think at home we just call them Pimps.
The pervading philosophy in this country is "Inshallah", if god wills
it. They go about their day-to-day lives unfazed by the rockets,
bombs and artillery shells blowing up around them. No need to worry
about dying, it's all in god's hands. The other day was a holy
holiday in Karballa. The faithful do a pilgrimage for a three day
pre-Ramadan party. The real faithful walk, some from as far away as
three hundred miles or more in the summer heat. They got to Karballa
and the first day of the celebration, there was a big gunfight in the
town square, two militias, both Shi'ite, having their little turf war
amidst all of the revelers. They shut down the party and sent every
body home. I don't know about you, but if I had just walked three
hundred miles to go see a show and got sent home, I'd be pissed. But
they just shrug it off and go about their business. Most of them
caught rides home. When thousands of them walk and just a few drive,
it gets kind of tight. I saw dozens of mini-vans packed to the hilt
with families going back home. The best part was that on top of every
one of those mini-vans, was another family riding in the breeze. Mom,
dad and the kids all perched on top of the soccer mom van going down
the road at highway speeds just laughing and having a good time. I
figured I probably wasn't going to be doing any child safety seat
clinics here as part of my training. Another thing they do is drive
wherever there is an opening. The big four lane divided highway just
out side the gate is a zoo. They drive both directions whether they
are in the south bound or northbound lanes, sometimes three abreast.
Medians and shoulders are fair game, too. Part of that may be that
when we are out, we own the roads. When an American (*%#& Yeah!!)
convoy is rolling, it is common knowledge that the locals are to pull
to the side of the road and stop. If they don't, they get lit up. We
had a little incident the other day when a convoy rolled out the gate.
They were fresh faces here in Iraq and didn't realize that the Iraqi
Army guys and IPs didn't have to play by the same rules as the rest of
the citizenry. When the IA truck wouldn't stop, they filled it full
of holes. The IA driver got lucky, but he can only count to nine now.
I was doing what we call PTT (Police Transitional Team) missions most
of the summer. On paper, we were to go to the police stations, there
are two in my area, both within five miles of camp, and conduct
training to get them to where they can police the country on their own
and the troops can go home. Our IP stations have been considered to
be at a level that needs minimal additional training, so other than
the first trip I made where we did a couple of classes on clearing a
building, I just gather some stats. I would go on a road trip outside
the gate every other day and sit at the IP stations for an hour or so
and gather information, while my military counterparts did the same
for their bean counters. We tried to instill some of the same
programs that we are familiar with at home. They had talked about
having a neighborhood watch program, so I started asking the police
chief about it. It had been assumed that it was similar to what we
have back home, but come to find out, their neighborhood watch was
really a protection racket. There were about four or five local guys
that would patrol the market area, but only because they were paid by
the shop keepers. Occasionally we would go on what they called a
joint patrol, a cruise down the area highway with a truck load of
Iraqis and our little military convoy. I continue to be blessed,
charmed, protected and just downright lucky (thanks to you all for
your thoughts and prayers) and did not experience any roadside bombs
or gunfire while on these patrols this summer. Others weren't so
lucky.
And speaking of bombs. Those silly Iraqis. Somebody will come tell
them that there is an unexploded rocket or artillery shell stuck in
their backyard, and like the Keystone Kops, they rush out there, throw
it in the back of their truck and bounce all the way back to the
station with it. We pulled into the station the other night and there
was a 155mm artillery shell laying in the courtyard. We called for
the bomb disposal guys to come and get it. The other day, they got a
call of a rocket while we were in the station. The plan was to go
check it out and then have EOD (the bomb guys) come blow it in place.
Less moving = more better/safer. We got out near the place and the
farmer took the cops to show them. They came back out with big cheesy
grins on their faces and an eight foot long rocket in the bed of their
truck. We followed them (at a respectable distance) back into town as
they bounced merrily along. It amazes me that these people manage to
stay alive long enough to kill each other.
I'm outta here in just a few days. I am on my way home with stops in
Amman, Frankfurt, Paris (ten days with a side trip to Spain), Denver,
Mexico and for something exotic and a little out of the ordinary,
McCook. I'll let you know how it goes.
r
For more info contact me at brendanf@bikeboneyard.com
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